Week 27 This week we get ply hull 'planks'
The bits we received
And what we did with them
The parts supplied don't get used this week. I finish off the top of the planking this week (well, almost)
Starting at the bow, I've fitted planks so that they fit under the deck neatly.
This is carried along the model, back to the point in the photo below.
Now I'm straying from the instructions somewhat. I'm planking the stern of the hull completely, and then I'll add the ply parts on top. Pretty much the same as I've done at the bow.
This is continued up until the planking is flush with the bottom of the deck. My plan is to add another plank to the hull, which will leave the planking protruding about 2mm above the deck. There is a 1mm thick deck supplied (I think) and I'll sand the planks down until they are flush with the deck. However, this is all a bit of guess work as I don't know what is being supplied in the way of decking. I guess we'll find out later in the series.
I do have a plan B, in case the decking isn't what I expect. That is to add a plank round the edge of the deck to take it out flush with the second planking. I shall leave this until I see the decking supplied and work out the best way of attacking it.
Back the the planking. I used some 3x1.5mm basswood planks to plank the stern. These were kindly supplied by a good friend, but you can get them from model shops. The narrower planks made it easier to plank round the compound curve of the stern. The photo below shows how the planks are flush with the bottom of the deck.
Here is the finished stern. I can now take the model off the building board and finish the bottom half of the hull planking.
I'll finish all the first planking on this weeks entry.
I've started with the planks one 'section' after of the bow. I've planked to leave a gap of about 3 planks left. From here on, I've tapered the planks so that I have a complete plank to finish the section rather than having thin triangles of planks to fit against the keel plate.
This is how it looks when finished. The pencil marks you can see are just the marks I put so I can see at a glance which way round the plank I'm fitting at the time goes.
This is the next 'section' moving aft. Again, I've tapered and thinned the last three planks to leave a full length plank for the last plank. The curve of the keel plate means that the plank has to be forced into a sideways curve which isn't good practice. You should never force a plank into position. However, I can't see any way round it in this situation.
In this section, I still tapered the planks, but I inserted a 3mm wide plank so that the last plank didn't need to be cut down excessively.
The bow is next. These planks were tapered so that you end up with the last plank running parallel to the keel. It makes a much better job than having planks cut off at an angle, with the ends unsupported. See issue 25, steps 8 and 9 to see Amati's method, which is not as good as mine (in my opinion anyway.)
See my Master Class on tapering planks on my forum for details on how to taper planks easily.
Moving back to the stern, I decided to do this section separately. The first plank is key, and not too difficult to get a neat finish. Cut a length of plank roughly to length. Take a soft pencil and rub it along the edge of the keel plate. Now carefully place the plank over the keel plate so that it overlaps the plate for its full length. Press down firmly and you'll find that the pencil mark has transferred to the plank. Now you can cut the plank to shape.
Now glue it in place. Simples !
Finally, fit the three remaining planks, tapering them as necessary.
Plank over the remaining two frames using the same method described above. You need to be quite careful marking and cutting the first plank so that you can get it out of a single plank.
The rest of the planks need to be tapers quite a lot.
The completed section looks pretty good to me :o)
The next section of the stern is quite sharply tapered. Therefore I've decided to use dropper planks. This is where two planks are tapered into one plank, which avoids the need for planks to be tapered to a very thin point.
First, I've fitted a temporary plank with a couple on pins. The gap at the wide end is 2 planks wide. I.e. 12mm. The gap at the thin end is 1/2 plank wide. I.e. 3mm.
Now fit a plank to fill half the gap, up to the frame where the gap is just less than a full plank.
Fit a second plank to fill the remaining gap.
Now taper a plank to fit the remaining gap at the thin end. You can see that the thinnest a plank tapers to is just under 3mm. It would be 1.5mm without using a dropper plank, which is really too thin to use.
Finally, remove the temporary plank. The next plank should be a full length plank, tapered to 3mm at the thin end.
I've fitted three dropper planks, interspaced with full length planks and this has left me a gap that only has a gentle taper. I can now just taper planks normally to complete the section.
Unfortunately I've run out of planks now, and am waiting for another copy of issue 24 so I can complete the planking. This is pretty much expected as I've used more planks to cover the area under the ply, and tapering uses more planks than Amati's method, although it does give a better result. The points where the planks just finish between frames will be quite weak.
I'll continue this once I've received some more planks - hopefully in a few days. However, this has completed the outstanding planking from previous issues.
Things left to do
Issue 11 : Deck supports to add.
Issue 23 : Planking, to be done after the model is removed from the building board. : Completed
Issue 24 : Complete the planking. : Completed
Issue 25 : Complete the planking. : Completed
Issue 26 : Complete the planking. : Completed