Week 26 This week we get more planking
The bits we received
And what we did with them
The planking round the stern (steps 1 to 8) will wait until the model is off the building board.
This is where I start to stray from the instructions in order to get a better looking bow. I'm going to plank the bow with the initial planking completely. Finger's crossed this works, otherwise I'll have lots of planking to strip off and redo. I will end up using more planks, so will have to order a back issue to get the extra planks.
The smaller ply parts from 27 & 28 are not going to be used, so the slot for them need to be filled. This is just a scrap of ply cut to the right size and glued in place.
Next I needed to fair the frames where the ply in issue 22 was fitted. I did this with a large flexible emery board, aka nail file.
Note that the edges of the bow haven't been touched yet.
Now I've fitted three planks over the bow. The shorter planks were exactly the right length. I've tapered these slightly, so that the planks are narrower at the rear. The bow flares up, which means that the gap is roughly 4 planks high at the aft end, and 5 planks high at the bow. I'd end up with the last plank being a triangular plank tapering to almost nothing if I didn't taper them. Tapering them all a little means the all look roughly the same, and the last plank is much easier to fit.
These are the next planks, which are step 9 of the instructions. They are also tapers very slightly, but they don't really need it. However, I did need to sand a curve onto the bottom some of the planks to get a close fit to the plank below.
Here are the next three planks, as per instructions.
We stray from the instructions here. Fit the first two planks as per instructions.
Now fit the third plank to that it extends to the aft edge of the frames.
It helps to fit the ply parts from issue 41 at this stage. The ply parts will need to be sanded back so that they are flush with the first layer planking. I.e. Make them just proud, then you only have to sand the corners off.
Here is a close up of the three planks, with the top one extended to the rear and the ply parts from 41 in place, and sanded back so they are flush with the planks.
Note that the deck is not sanded back at all yet, other than a slight scuff from sanding back the ply parts.
Now I turn my attention to the stern. After much umming and ahhing, I've decided to try the same method of planking at the stern. I.e. Make a complete first layer of planks and then add the ply details and second planking.
The decks at the stern are just about flush with the frames, so I've sanded these down so that they are flush. I can then run the planking up the side of the deck.
I need to sand off the tabs on the stern piece, so that the planking has a straight run.
This is the sanded back stern. I hope this works now.........
Rather than follow the instructions, leaving the end of the last plank floating in mid air, I've run it back to land on a frame.
One of the longer planks just lands on a frame. Lucky ! I could have stopped the plank one frame shorter, but if I do it this way I only need one plank to finish the stern.
You can see the plank has split where the pin is too close to the end of the plank. You can get round this by drilling a pilot hole in the plank first.
Fixing the deck with magnets
I've decided to use some magnets to hold the decks in place, and now is an opportune time to fit them. I've used neosomthingibium magnets, which are the super strong ones you can get easily now. The one I'm using are 1x5mm discs. I got them from Ebay, and they are cheap as chips.
Quick word of warning. Keep these away from babies and young children, pets, etc. If they are swallowed they attract to each other inside the body and can tear holes in your intestines, causing serious medical problems. Unlike coins, beads, etc. they do not pass through the body harmlessly.
Back to the plot. I've fitted four to the after deck, and six to the main deck. See the photos at the bottom for the positions. First off, mark the positions with a pencil. I slipped up slightly here. They are better located about 3mm further inboard, so the inboard edge of the magnet aligns with the end of the slot. Sand one face of the magnet to roughen it, and glue it in place with super glue. The roughness makes the glue stick better. The wood is quite porous, so 'prime' it by applying a drop of super glue first, allow it to soak in, and give it an hour to set completely.
Place a second magnet on the first. They will only go one way round. Sand the exposed face, and then glue a piece of wood to it. I used some odd bits of 6x10mm strip, but into about 15mm lengths. Again, this wood was very porous, so the end was primed with superglue and allowed to dry first. Add a small drop of super glue to the magnet and place the wood on top. Position it so that the edge of the wood aligns with the edge of the slot.
Try the deck in place, checking the fit. I had to carve away some of the wood to clear the inside of the planing. See two photos down.
Apply PVA glue to the face of the wood, leaving it fixed to the deck with the magnet. Then put the deck in place. Use a pair of self closing tweezers or something similar to clamp the wood to the frame. Make sure that the deck in fully seated.
Allow the glue to dry, then remove the deck. It should leave one magnet fixed to the wood on the hull, and one glued to the underside of the deck.
You can see where I had to carve the wood to clear the planks.
This is the positions of the magnets on the aft deck.
This is where I fixed the magnets on the main deck.
That's it for this week until the model is off the board.
Things left to do
Issue 11 : Deck supports to add.
Issue 23 : Planking, to be done after the model is removed from the building board.
Issue 24 : Complete the planking.
Issue 25 : Complete the planking.
Issue 26 : Complete the planking.